Podręcznik sprzedaży Honeywell Ademco Vista 48la to doskonała opcja dla osób, które poszukują profesjonalnego systemu bezpieczeństwa. System ten oferuje wiele funkcji, w tym pełną kontrolę nad systemem alarmowym, wielozadaniowe funkcje kontroli dostępu, możliwość zdalnego sterowania i śledzenia oraz możliwość integracji z komunikacją bezprzewodową. System jest łatwy w instalacji i obsłudze, a jego wszechstronność oznacza, że może być stosowany w różnych sytuacjach. Podręcznik sprzedaży Honeywell Ademco Vista 48la oferuje wszystko, czego potrzebujesz do bezpiecznego zabezpieczenia swojego domu lub firmy.
Ostatnia aktualizacja: Podręcznik sprzedaży Honeywell Ademco Vista 48la
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Honeywell VISTA-20P Ademco panel sterowania, PCB w aluminiowej obudowie: Amazon. pl: Narzędzia i renowacja domu
Podręcznik sprzedaży Honeywell Ademco Vista 48la
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Komentarz
Thanks for this series. I am building house and have run all the cables during rough in .... and now am ready to start configuration. This will definitely help fast track the process. Really appreciate you taking the time to publish
Hey, Thanks so much for the video. I had read a lot of security system forym posts before choosing the Vista 20p and the components. Your advice with care about keypad selection is spot in with what I'd read elsewhere. I had read one recommendation about upgrading from the 4ah battery to the 7ah battery. In pricing out components on Amazon I found it was only $2 or $3 more so I went for it (we are in a rural area with several blackouts annually) but I also wanted to power 4 sirens.
Wow!!! Such a very detailed and informative video series. Thank you very much!!! Still applies in 2019 since the company installed the same system in my new house.
Your video series for vista 20p has been incredibly helpful for alarm installation. The alarm panel is not hard but it certainly is not intuitive. Your videos really help to bridge that gap. I had one question though. What size connectors did you use on the wires to get them to fit on the control panel terminals?
Hello, Sirens and horns that I know about do not normally require a driver card. All the alarm outputs that I know of only require power to activate. The power comes directly from the Vista panel battery, which is one of the reasons why the battery is so important. If you applied the correct voltage to the siren and it did not sound, make sure the power source you used has enough current capacity to drive the siren. (Look for a manufacturing label stating voltage/current requirements on the siren). Some sirens require more power then the vista panel is capable of delivering. In this case, the alarm panel output is used to activate a relay to provide power from a larger power source. If you used the correct voltage supported by the proper current, then the non sounding siren may be bad. With all of that said, remember, I am talking about Vista 20p alarm systems. I do not know how ADT drives their sirens. Good luck
Thank you SO much for these videos!!! You have honestly made my life so much easier... I can't believe how through you are. Thanks again. A couple of questions if you have time. The specs on the 6160 keypad says current is 40mA/150mA but the table in the Vista 20P manual for calculating max AUX current says 100mA for the 6160. I understand that standby for 6160 is 40mA and alarm (with backlighting) is 150mA, so why does the table have 100mA instead of 150mA? My total items connected to AUX power are two 6160s keypads (100mA or 150mA each???), 8 Motion Sensors (25mA each), 3 Glass Break Sensors (12mA each) and an EnvisaLink EVL-4EZR (for internet connection 65mA) for a total of 601mA or 501mA (depending on whether the 6160s are supposed to be 100mA or 150mA each). Calculation = 200 (or 300) + 200 + 36 + 65 = 501mA (or 601mA). While it may not matter, I also have three sirens connected to alarm output with a total of 1,500mA. Which number should I use in my AUX output calculation for the 6160: 100 or 150mA? If it's 150mA, does it matter that I'm 1 mA over the limit for AUX max current output (600mA)? Do I have to add supplemental power (and another battery)? If not, how large should my battery be (17.2AH battery or is a 7AH battery OK)? Final question, why are the UL numbers in the manual so much lower (e.g., max AUX current < 500mA total instead of 600mA) - are they just [unnecessarily] conservative?
I am re-watching these videos as I am make some changes to my alarm system. It is a GREAT reference collection of videos for the Vista series of alarm systems. Thanks for making these.
Very impressive and helpful video, bud.
Great videos on the 20P. I have a 15P that I'm trying to bring back to life. I've found your videos helpful. Thanks for posting. I do have one question. Do you have any idea how I can test for a short for each hone run to my doors and windows. I assume I need an ohm meter but beyond that I have no idea what I'm doing. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
Outstanding content and very valuable! Thank U!
I have a question about upgrading and existing Vista 20P system that has a wireless 5881 module, wireless sensors and only 1 6150 wired fixed display. I want to expand the system by adding a second wireless keypad to cover another door and provide myself programming capability. Can I just add a 6160RF at the second door to provide wireless connectivity and programability? Or should I upgrade the existing keypad to a 6160 (programability) and install a 5858 wireless keypad at the 2nd entry? The first alternative (adding a single 6160RF) is apparently cheaper.
Good videos, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for posting these series of videos. I bought that same system from the home security store. I couldn't get any help from them. The only problem I had with my system was with wiring the two wire fire alarm. I still cant get it to work. Can you post something on that.
I just got done installing a vista 15 panel with a 6160 keypad, can you tell me why the alarm goes off as soon as the delay times out when setting the 6160 in the away mode with no faults shown.
Can anyone tell me how to connect electricity to panel without using the plug-in transformer? This is the way it is done at my home with a previous install.
can i replace the chip in my adt board to a vista 20p to follow your process or do I need to replace the whole board and chip?
It turned out to be *38 (confirmation of arming ding) somehow it got turned on during my programming :-).
Very nice video. But I want to recommend one piece to your system. The true thing about carbon monoxide is that it is colorless and odorless, you cannot see it or smell it. And, deadly! Absolutely deadly. Carbon monoxide is often called the silent killer because, it is oftentimes the cause of death in homes all across the world. I have a story about a family who were killed by a carbon monoxide leak in their home. Originated from a defective water heater, the entire family succumbed to carbon monoxide poisoning. The police found them a week later. They didn't have a working carbon monoxide detector. I hear these really sad stories about easily preventable tragedies. You would never know that you have a problem unless you have a carbon monoxide detector. And ,if you have a carbon monoxide leak, you're going to want your alarm panel to signal for that as well. Having a carbon monoxide detector hooked up to the panel will make that happen for you. I can't stress enough how much I would highly recommend a carbon monoxide detector to be wired into your alarm panel.
If you are not a pro alarm installer you can't get tech support I have tried
